Stefano Poletti, a materials wizard, is this season’s Fashion Jewellery Talent.
Stefano’s main sources of inspiration come from the materials that he works with, twisting, ageing, engraving, hammering and burning. He brings out the delicate transparency of glass, the veining and grain of wood and the complex structure of sponge. His collections whisk you away to Lake Como and other regions of his native Italy, his prime source of inspiration.
Tell us a little about your career?
I studied fashion at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, then at the Studio Berçot in Paris. In the 80s, I honed my skills working with major fashion houses such as Montana, Thierry Mugler, Hanae Mori, Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. As well as heading my own brand, I was also Elisabeth de Senneville’s assistant.
What determines your style?
I feel really close to nature and I frequently drew on my childhood memories of Lake Como. I often use Murano glass, as I am truly fascinated by this material that seems to come alive. The material is the starting point for any collection, usually because its lightweight feel, transparency or lively shape appeals to me. I always hand-finish each piece to add my own touch, my filter.
What are your sources of inspiration?
I love fairy tales, magic and dreams. I based an entire range on Casanova. I also pay homage to artists such Yves Klein. I tend to start off my collections with visually striking sculptural pieces. Than I create different versions.
Who are your muses?
I am a huge fan of Mina, an Italian singer whose songs were the soundtrack to my youth. But sometimes I’m also inspired by woman around me: my assistant and my aunt, for example. My muses always have strong personalities and they know how to wear my jewellery.
What are the key themes for winter?
This season, I worked on the Belladonna flower. Also known as Deadly Nightshade, this is a dangerous and fascinating medical plant. I hammered out metal flowers with pearls. I’m also continuing with my homage to Casanova with an earring, brooch and necklace set made from mirrored metal and raw amethyst. Finally, I took my inspiration from starry nights on Lake Como by using dark blue domes decorated with golden stars.
And for summer?
I went for a white collection with white plastic beads trimmed with Murano flowers for a very fresh Daisy feel. I also focused my work on textured pieces based on cut-out Perspex, as well as on Murano glass jewellery inspired by nature.